Edinburgh Happenings

There is always a fear that nags at even the best of us, if whether or not our greatest desires, once experienced, will be everything we have expected them to be. This can lead to us passing up opportunities that could benefit us greatly or just be a good laugh. I have done this often, passing up on adventures because of doubts of whether it will be what I desire or because I fear to leave the comfort zone I have created for myself. Going to Britain was for me, one of those moments and despite the doubts, dears, and dread of flying, missing trains, and countless other worries, I, with my trusted pal beside me, made it to Scotland.....

Edinburgh city, a sprawling metropolis dating back to the 12th century and set on an engaging landscape of green grassland, purple heather, and hills of stone. We arrived early, the rain falling or "spittin" as the local Scott behind us had offered up loudly, and fog etching the lines between sky and land. We had made it. After a few small inconveniences, we made it on a bus, the Lothian, which seems to be the main bus system in Edinburgh, and which then promptly dropped us off ten minutes down the road from the airport. I am surprised we managed to navigate our way so well the first day as Edinburgh is next to nothing like back home. People fill the streets like bees in a honey pot, cars, buses, and trams screech willy nilly about the streets in a supposedly organized chaos, some stopping within an inch of the next bumper before squealing off with a honk and swerve to avoid the tourists taking pictures of the giant marvels of brick and stone. Not to say we didn't get lost a few times - a casual look in to the booking office to look for tickets showed us that it was anything but a ticket office and that pubs are definitely not information booths. It worked out in the end and so we at last made it to our first AirBnB in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Edinburgh offers rain in many forms, ranging from a light "spit" to a heavy deluge that soaks within minutes. Often, you may be fortunate enough to experience all forms in just twenty minutes, but on a rare day, you might see the glimpse of sunshine pour out from the seemingly never ending cover of dark clouds. Upon our arrival and until our departure, it mostly rained lightly and we even were happy enough to have sunshine greet our small loft in the late afternoons. Our room looked over a park into Arthur's Seat, with two trapdoor windows looking out, two twin beds, carpeted floors, a shower room, and a small room with a table, microwave, and the all important kettle. At first, we were pleasantly surprised to notice that we were the only ones to be staying, but soon, after a rather interesting encounter with a young woman in nothing but a towel, introduced us to the fact that we were not alone. She and her, assumed husband, stayed throughout our stay, taking over the small fridge, drinking all the milk for tea, and spending the entire time in the kitchen, while never leaving the flat until at least after one in the afternoon. This did not bother us too much, for we were only there for breakfast and then back after our travels sometime about six that evening. 

Another thing, people walk in Edinburgh. There is no driving a car half and hour to your destination (unless of course you are one of those few) and I can see why. Traffic is terrible, even being a pedestrian can be dangerous at times. Not that I am complaining, it would do all of us good to walk more, and when one has such a view as that granted to you in Edinburgh, one is content. Most of the streets and indeed the pavements as well, are cobbled, which leads to a pleasant, "click clop" of shoes on its hard surface. We walked the Royal Mile, queued for the castle, marveled over Rembrandt at the National Gallery, and wandered far throughout small streets and then busy ones. 

We had been rushing through the main street, Royal Mile, when we darted into what we would call an alley, or close, to escape the deluge of people in their never ending rush, upwards and downwards. Following it to the end and down quite a bit of large, stone steps, we made it to the street beyond Royal Mile. This was much quieter and there was a quiet hush as the rain began to fall a bit harder and the few people that graced the street, walked quietly to their desired destination. We visited a small boutique called Eden, where I purchased two small postcards and E, my friend and travel companion, purchased a small gift for her mother at home. Back on the street, we walked a bit further before bumping into a rather pleasant surprise, the Milkman Cafe. I am sure anyone that has wanted to go to Edinburgh or anyone who already has, will have heard of the Milkman, for it is by far the sweetest small cafe, I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. The interior was of stone and iron, very rustic, with window seats of dulled blue tartans, pillows, and small wooden pallets to place your coffee on. The menu was written chalk above the counter and I ordered a flat white to drink there. 

*Note: there are no sizes when it comes to small cafes, you either get "to go" or to drink there. The drink type, latte, flat white, etc, determines the size of the beverage. 

We were directed to a wooden table outside the cafe and sat to wait for our order. A small, charcoal grey cup with a saucer and spoon was soon brought, probably around an 8-ounce at Starbucks. It was delicious and the just the thing to warm me up after the cold, rainy walk from our loft.  

Food is everywhere in Edinburgh, but strangely enough, we tried little of it. Our first taste of Scotland, was at a Gregg's, a small walk in, fast food shop where you could quickly get a portable hot sausage roll, hotpot, coffee, and donuts. Most of our shopping was done at the local grocer, Sainsburys, where I picked up a selection of Italian hams, French goat cheese, a Scottish crisp brand called Mackies, a few odds and ends, and of course, McVities Digestives.  This served as a small repast for several lunches and dinners with the exception of our desperate search for fish and chips which ended at a greasy chip chop called the Clamshell. I was disappointed with these, as they were too oily and were served with neither any sauces nor salt and vinegar. We ate mostly in silence while a Scottish gentleman stood outside and held a conversation (yelling of course) with the tenet above the chip shop. I did stop for a wee bit at the Tree house Cafe for a small bite as we were wandering. E, my travel buddy, ordered a brownie and water, and I had the most delicious chicken- pesto panini I have ever had. 

Edinburgh Castle was a fun stop, and if you are patient enough to wait the ques, you will be well rewarded at the end. It is of course, now quite the tourist attraction and I laugh to think what David I of Scotland would say at the droves of people wandering and gaping with mouths wide open who are not the enemy bent on the destruction of the castle and its lands. Great stock was set upon the Crown Jewels. However, after the forty five minutes of being pushed, shoved, and thrust forwards by hundreds of people through small corridors big enough for one abreast, they were not what they were made out to be and I much preferred the Stone of Destiny, which was exactly as portrayed in the film of the same name in 2008. The views from the top were magnificent and the prisons were actually quite nice with their white wash and black trim. 

We had our own experience with a drunken Scotsman down on Royal Mile. We had stopped for tea and out on the rode there was standing this gentleman, he much reminded me of Braveheart with a tall stature, thick golden hair which fell to his shoulders, a rough, low voice, a sturdy, thickset build, and very small shorts, with a giant water bottle, plastic, tucked under his arm with what we were sure was not actually water of any kind. He bumbled down the street, bottle in arm, yelling "help me, help me" the whole way and then rambling on about the rates these days and online payments. A unique diversion to our day. 

  

 St. Mary's Cathedral was one of our visits while wandering around town near Leith and well worth walking. It was stunning  and we were fortunate enough to have the choir practicing while we walked and never have I heard a more beautiful sound, for indeed it is as they say in the books, like the sounds of angels come from heaven.

It was a busy and quite full two days, with many misadventures and wrong turns, but it was wonderful. If I am honest, I did not enjoy myself quite as much as I had thought, for I had a hard time with all the loud noises of a busy city, the constant yelling, honking, trolleys, trams and buses, the rain, the tourists, etc. I felt a bit lost, in another way than not knowing where you are, and trapped with no way to go. For sure, I enjoyed what I saw, but I did in no way feel at home or comfortable and so I was content enough to leave after our short stay.

We did have the fortune to run into some filming in St. Giles Cathedral and then again down from our flat, where all the film buses, trailers, and official looking cars were parked under Arthur's Seat. We were unable to find out what they were filming, but it is exciting to say that we were somewhere where they were, as there is nothing of the sort back home.

It has been an adventure to say the least and I am excited to see what our next stop has in store for us. Edinburgh was lovely, but as I said, a bit too much and so I looking forward to staying in a small town.

Small Things Not Mentioned:

- hiked (almost) Arthur's Seat

- had haggis (delicious!)

- walked Dean's Village (or so we think)

- walked 10 miles in one day

-had a picnic on our loft floor

- had the fire alarm go off during the night

- watched a fitness group in the park outside of our window do relay racing

- missed the bus (once only!)

- this really isn't small, but I just forgot... we went to the Scottish National Gallery and I saw a real Rembrandt and Raphael!!!!!! It was breathtaking and there was a Constable too, I was in heaven for a bit. 

-had tea and digestive biscuits

Until Next Time!

Goodbye Scotland

Scottish National Gallery

Edinburgh Castle -Stained Glass

The Milkman and Me